North Andaman Liveaboard –  Similans, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai  and Richilieu Rock MV Scuba Adventure departed from Patong on the evening of the 4^th en-route to the Similans. Kath, the Tour Leader and Steve, the Dive Master welcomed on board Lucrezia and Rene from Switzerland, Mats from Sweden, Guido and Gianna from  Italy and Peter and Karen from England. With the boat briefing completed, cabins allocated, equipment set up we had a relaxing dinner where everyone became acquainted.

We woke to the beautiful scenery of Island 5 and 6, which is the home of Anita’s Reef. With the dive safety and dive sight briefing done we kitted up for our first dive of the trip. Anita’s reef did not disappoint. The stunning coral bommie was covered in glass fish, which was a sight to be seen. Nudibranch, Fusiliers, Snappers were all out in their glory. The pristine white sand was home to the dancing Garden Eels and Khuls rays.  A banded pipe fish was found on one of the large boulders on the corner of Island 5.  After breakfast we headed to Island 9 and North Point. This site is a combination of huge rock formations and reef. It is briefed as “but one get one free!!”  The rocky formation has several swim throughs together with coral gardens nestled between the rocks.   Turtles were in abundance as they poised for the photographers in the group. The turtles here are not at all shy and continued munching away as if to say”Oh they’re only divers!”   We also saw a banded sea snake head to the surface for air. In the shallows a rock formation was covered in Purple Dragon Nudibranch. A treat for the macro lovers on the boat.

After lunch we arrived at Koh Bon for our 3^rd dive of the day. We were fortunate as we were the only divers in the water at this popular sight. We dropped in on the corner and made our way to the West Ridge. A large school of yellow snapper were below us as we reached the ridge. On the ridge there were hunting Long Nosed Emporers, Trevelly and Rainbow Runners.  A Devil Scorpion was camouflaged amongst the broken coral on the reef.  A meter away was an octopus hiding in a rock. There was so much to see!!! The glass fish again, were food for the larger hunters…a feeding frenzy. A Mantis Shrimp quickly ran across the reef, which was a first for some of the divers.

A highlight of the dive was to see 2 Napolean Wrasse swimming around us for a while.  The divers who chose to do the night dive on Koh Tachai Reef saw many different types of crabs, shrimps and spent about 10 minutes with a free swimming moray, which hunted successfully catching an unsuspecting fish for dinner!!

Day 2 and the Captain started the engines at 3.40am. We were on our way to Richelieu Rock. Here we did 3 dives. The Rock is worthy of multiple dives as the marine life here is so prolific. A school of giant barracuda were waiting our arrival! Fortunately, we were able to locate a sea horse and 2 ornate ghost pipe fish.  Cuttle fish were in abundance as they displayed their courtship ritual. The whole area was like being in fish soup with large schools of fish swimming around us. Cleaner pipe fish were found in the crevices, mantis shrimps along the bottom hiding and a devil scorpion camouflaging itself as a piece of coral. Needless to say there were many more creatures too numerous to mention. One highlight was seeing a zebra moray free swimming in the shallows.

The 4^th dive of the day was a sunset dive at Jetski Rock on Koh Tachai. A chilled out relaxing dive. The trevellies were in menacing hunting mode as they circled the glassfish on the reef. They are truly the “Gangsters” of the reef. A moray was enjoying being cleaned by a cleaner shrimp as the surrounding marine life prepared for bed. The sunset when we surfaced was spectacular and gave the perfect ending to a great day. Day 3 started with the morning dive on Koh Tachai Pinnacle. With a slight current it was easy navigate around the site.  The corals on the pinnacle are beautiful. Soft corals, gorgonion sea fans, whip coral are abundant.  A few barracuda were hanging above the site and the resident bat fish were between two huge boulders. Rene and Lucrezia were lucky and saw a leopard shark. They did have photographic evidence, so we had to believe them!!

The second and third dives were on Koh Bon. Hunters were menacing as they circled amongst the glass fish and then without warning a feeding frenzy. The third devil scorpion fish of the trip was also seen. However, the icing on the cake at Koh Bon was the manta on dive 2. We were in the shallows coming towards the end of the dive when the manta appeared. This amazing creature brought smiles to all our faces as it approached us several times. Dive 4 was a sunset dive in the Similans and on West of Eden on Island 7. This dive was relaxing as we slowly worked our way along the reef swimming between the coral blocks. Glass fish in abundance, feather stars in every colour and an array of fish. Day 4 and an early start on Elephant Head Rock and boy oh boy did it pay off…..As soon as we dropped in we had a white tip reef shark laying on the bottom at 20m. As we approached it swam away. However, several minutes later we saw two side by side. Elephant Head has some lovely swim throughs and one of the white tips swam into it. Kath was the only diver to see this. The huge granite boulders with the coral gardens between are very impressive. The second dive on Shark Fin Reef was an easy dive for the end of the trip. Shark Fin reef has dramatic scenery of huge granite boulders. In one of the long cracks in a rock there resting was a Jenkins Ray. Further along the reef we saw a large school of giant barracudas. This was the first trip of the season to the Similans and Richelieu Rock and if this trip was anything to go by then we should have a wonderful season.

I was very excited to take this trip out during the “summer season” as tour leader on MV Scuba Adventure. All season the local sites from Phuket had been performing so well, with lots of great visibility dives and an abundance of marine life both (very) big and small. I also knew that during the high season the dive sites of Hin Deang and Hin Maung are awesome, but I didn’t know what to expect from a trip this time of year?

Scuba Adventure

… It was not a disappointment!

So here we go:

Day 1:

Shark Point – Great visibility to enjoy all the lovely soft corals, fans, sponges and tons of marine life including the odd leopard shark. Hi-light of the dive: a large marble patterned tiger tail seahorse.

Shark Point

Koh Bida Nok – Again tons of marine life, especially the trevally and schools of fusiliers, and a nice big hawksbill turtle at the start. Hi-light of the dive: absolutely the 10-20 black-tip sharks seen during the dive, especially getting up real close to 5-10 of them in the bay, before they finally torpedoed passed us.

Koh Bida Nok

Koh Ha Yai – A beautiful late afternoon dive to enjoy the caverns (known as the Cathedral) and swim-through’s. Hi-light of the dive: the view looking out at the silhouetted divers the from the back of the Cathedral.

"The Cathedral"

Koh Ha Lagoon – A comfortable night dive in the protected lagoon between islands 2 and 4. Our group explored the east side wall of island 2 and the sloping reef between. Hi-light: For me the macro life amongst the vivid soft corals on the wall, for others the giant barracuda following us!

Day 2:

Hin Muang – Oh my God! The visibility! We could see the bottom… and which ever side you are on, it goes down a very long way! Lot’s of life; and the soft corals looking bigger and more colourful than ever. Hi-light of the dive: All of it, in stunning visability. It was like a scene from the movie The Abyss but with the lights on! Diving – the best reason in the world to get up with the sun.

"Stunning Visibility"

Hin Deang – Awesome vis continued, we could even see the outer pinnacle from the main rock! Whichever way you looked there was marine activity and mild currents meant an easy swim to appreciate it all. Hi-light of the dive: Did I mention the large manta ray that made it’s way around the rock to the outer pinnacle!

"Manta Ray"

Koh Ha Neua – An early afternoon dive made the best of the huge purple soft corals on the southern side of this site. The shallow hard coral reef at the end of the dive was full of fish, whilst weaving in and out of the soft-coral coated rock channels rewarded us with nice nudi’s and a brilliant yellow tigertail seahorse. Hi-Light of the dive: A spotted eagle ray hovering over the purple soft coral field.

"Sea Horse"

Koh Bida Nok – With the currents reversed and an exciting dive the day before, we chose to go again from the other side of the island. This dusk dive showed us some more big fish (black-tip sharks), kuhl’s rays, mantis shrimps, morays, nudibranchs. Hi-light of the dive: I guess taking the time to see all the things we hadn’t noticed on the other dives – Bida Nok is one of the richest and most varied dive sites. Oh, and it being a dusk dive so some of us could visit Phi Phi Don and enjoy an evening on land.

Day 3:

Koh Bida Nai – Yet another sunny day, this early morning dive provided more sharks and a small school of big pick-handled barracuda. Hi-light of the dive: Swimming through the hundreds of fusiliers and trevally that hang out in the sunshine over the beds of stag horn coral, then back up the reef to the glittering chevron barracudas.

Koh Bida Nai

Anemone Reef – Of course anemones but also lots of colorful soft corals make this a beautiful pinnacle in good visibility… and it was! A turtle, lot’s of fish, little current, nudi’s and a few bamboo shark made it even better. Hi-light: A pale-yellow seahorse out in the sand (I like seahorses!)

Anemone Reef

Koh Doc Mai – A nice surprise… an extra dive thrown on to the end of the trip! This wall dive is awesome for macro – wonderful nudibranchs, ornate ghost pipefish, more bamboo sharks, all sorts of morays, this site can have it all. Hi-light: We got to dive again, ha!

Koh Doc Mai

Apart from the great visibility and relaxed diving (with it’s heart racing moments – sharks, manta, eagle ray), for me it was the wonderful variety of dive sites and marine life that made the trip one of the best. Also helping to make the diving awesome was that, during most of the trip, we were the only boat diving the sites… well, we were on the Scuba Adventure!

The Similan Marine Park is located 70km west of Thailand Phang-Nga province. This group of islands is considered to be one of the top dive destinations in the world, mainly due to the clear water that surrounds the islands.

Similan was derived from the Malay work for nine “Sembilan” as the little archipelago is made up of nine islands. The islands do have local individual names, but are usually referred to by their respective numbers from North to South.

The Similan’s were designated as a National Park of Thailand in 1982 and cover an area of 128km2, which includes Koh Bon and the two rocky outcrops of Shark Fin Reef and Hin Pusa.

In 1998 an extra 12km2 of area was added when Koh Tachai was added to the park, which is now a total area of 140km2, of which only 15km2 is land.

Most of the islands are uninhabited with the exception of Islands 4, 8 and koh Tachai, which have national park offices located on them.

With the nine islands you get a wide variety of experiences, activities and stunning views, there are white sand beaches and massive boulder formations.

Underwater there are amazing coral gardens and diverse marine life ideal for all divers.

The topography differs between the eastern and western sides of the islands. The east side consists of sandy bottoms with wide and colourful soft and hard coral fields that slope down to 40m in some areas. They have gentle current and make for easy diving.

The west side is characterized by large, stacked granite boulder formations which create tunnels and archways with impressive scenery. Currents here can be unpredictable which can make the diving more challenging for beginner divers. But this side is exposed to the open sea and provides good opportunities to spot big pelagic life.

Island 1               Koh Hu-Yong

The second largest island lies 8km south of island 4, it has the largest white sand beach of the Similan National Park which is located on the north side of the island. The beach is a protected area and has a Turtle hatchery, you need special permission from the forestry department to enter this island.

Island 2 and 3     Koh Pa-Yang and Koh Pa-Yan

These two islands are also protected, their topography is granite boulders with mountains and cliffs, no beaches. At resent all the first 3 islands are closed to diving in an effort to preserve the underwater environment. The most southern dive sites are the rocky outcrop of Shark Fin Reef and the submerged site of Boulder City.

Island 4               Koh Miang

The island has a marine park office, camping, small bungalows and a fresh water supply. There are 2 beaches, Haad-Yai or Princess beach on the north and Haad-Lek or Honeymoon beach to the East. There is a trail that runs between the two through the forest. Also on the island is a view point where once you reach the top has a spectacular view of the south islands of the Similans, the trek to get there is a little energetic though.

Islands 4 and 5   Koh Ha and Koh Hok

These two islands are located to the East of Island 4 and are the smallest in the group. The landscape underwater is spectacular with both fringing reef and boulder formations.

Island 7               Koh Pa-Yu

The island has a combination of granite formations and sand beaches. The East side of the island is now closed to diving, but the north and west sides offer rocky pinnacles as dive sites which are covered in soft corals. Again these sites are open to the ocean so currents can be encountered along with the bigger pelagic life.

Hin Pusa

Is located between islands 7 and 8 and is a group of boulders known as “Elephant Head Rock” as the shape resembles the head of an elephant. The site is recommended for experienced divers due to the depth and current.

Island 8               Koh Similan

Is the highest and largest of the islands and has a marine park office and camping in the North of the island at Donald Duck Bay. It is also where the famous Sail Rock is located which is a symbol of Similan. The view from the Rock shows the North part of the Similans. There is no diving on the west or East side of the island, leaving only the North area available.

Island 9               Koh Ba-Ngu

The island has no beach, but is a favorite with divers due to the scenery underwater, it has a mix of coral reef and rocky outcrops.

Koh Bon

The island is North east of Similans, with no sand beaches it is a limestone island with an unusual “hole” which traverses the island on the west side caused by sea erosion. The most popular dive is the ridge where a cleaning station for Manta Rays can be found.

Koh Tachai

This is most Northern part of the Similan Marine Park.  The island has a beautiful white powder beach where the park office is located. With many dive sites including a plateau to the south it is a popular dive destination.

Richelieu Rock

Although not part of the Similan marine park this is often dived on the same liveaboard trips. It is actually part of the Surin Marine Park and is located between the mainland and Surin islands. It is a submerged pinnacle know for it colourful soft coral and rich diversity of life, which can include the smallest creatures such as ghost pipe fish and sea horses to the largest of whale sharks and Manta rays.

We first had the opportunity to try out the Scuba Cat fleet when we went out on a Day Cruise on Scuba Fun to Racha Noi back in 2005.  My Wife, Amy and myself, Carl McKay were on a larger family vacation and we were all aboard, some certifying, some diving in what was our first visit to Phuket. We feel in love with Phuket, the water, the people.

"Scuba Fun"

We have been back almost every year since.

……..Second trip to Scuba Cat

Our family had encouraged us, to move up to the next level of diving:  A live-a-board.  A what-a-who?  Hadn’t done that before and after an explanation of the location at the Similan Islands, the boat and what we could see, we went for it.

"MV Scuba Cat"

The first trip was three diving days.  We arrived from Scuba Sport, the transfer boat, to the remote Scuba Cat Boat.  We didn’t know what to expect.  Surprise was our first expression.  Out in the middle of this clear blue water, we find some islands, a few boats and this mobile diving “experience” – I think you have to look at Scuba Cat, not only as a dive boat, but a place that you quickly connect with new faces that work on board and other guests who are there for the same reason.  It’s like going to a convention and finally everyone has a story to share, because you simply showed up and attended.

"Ready to Dive"

I think what made the experience so nice was how easy the diving became.  Setup in the back of what I think is one of the best ever designed platforms, wide open where easily four people can enter at the same time safely.  The crews at the back are able to help and quickly learn everyone’s needs and are always looking out for you.  They wash your gear off after every dive and clean up for the night too.  Easily you can do five dives in a day!

"........Splash!"

The Dive Masters, are comforting, knowledgeable and don’t stray from the manual; safety was always first.  The orientations prior to every dive spot on.

My Wife was in a peculiar position.  Unlike me, I was up for every dive.  She is safety conscious and honestly does a great check every time.  No shortcuts.  I was a Husband who wanted to have her on every dive.  What I needed to learn was that by doing that put her in a rushed mode and her comfort zone was being tampered with.  I just love doing stuff with her.

"Amy, Andy and Kate"

This is where Sarah came in and became Amy’s most trusted Dive Buddy and now a dear friend.  At that time, Sarah was on board as a Divemaster, now she’s the Queen of the fleet.

"Amy"

As mentioned earlier, Amy is safety conscious.  She likes to drop down when she is ready.  Diving shouldn’t be stressful as it is a vacation and why bother if you are worried.

I would go off with the rest of the family, Amy, still not too many dives in, was guided by Sarah. The perfect combination; Sarah’s experience and understand built confidence in Amy’s skills.  In a nutshell, they would usually jump in last and take their time.

"The Family"

Amy has since moved towards Advanced.  In addition, while most folks don’t care for night diving, within the first two days Sarah and Amy were down at night!  It blew me away.

Something that weighed heavily in building that trust was when Sarah approached us both to discuss an issue with Amy.  She was moving towards Advanced certification with the additional dives she as doing and taking tests on board Scuba Cat.  Sarah said that she didn’t want to move Amy towards Advanced, but offered an Adventure certification.  Simple put, given Amy’s regularity with diving and her comfort, she didn’t want to put Amy in a situation with another Dive Company somewhere out there and their expectations be a burden to her and put her at risk.  It allowed her to learn, move forward with skills and build confidence, but not rushed.

There are a lot of outfits that push you to move quickly through the certification because it makes revenue, I’ve seen some real bad skills and people call them selves Advanced.  Example:  No touchie, just lookie…  Yes, “Advanced” folks touching! NO!

I know that strays from the intent of this entry, but I am trying to show the consciousness of the now owner and integrity over selling another certification.

Diving is a great sport, opens travel to a whole other world, but like in any other sport you need to know your comfort level.  The addition of water isn’t to be scared of, it needs to be respected on every dive.  Experience isn’t the only factor, relearning and doing every check is important too.

Back to the “Cat” – Every Divemaster has been great, the food, amazing and the deck crew always smiling.  By the way, a reminder, if someone is taking extra care of you, it’s good to remember them when they are saying bye to you.  These folks work hard and are another fail safe in an experience on any boat.

"Island 8"

We have been out to the Similan Islands five times now.  Every moment leading up to the transfer boat and the first glimpse of Scuba cat are Exciting.  Meeting new people, bumping into old friends, and sharing new stories.  The tough part is leaving.  A magical experience;  There may be other boats, but Scuba Cat was one of the first.  We just wish it were closer to get to…  I always say “Bye for now” then I know I will be coming back to visit and see great people soon too.